can antenna question

[Natz]

instead of using an N-connector and adding a wire to it, is it possible for me to just strip the end of a coaxil bable in there? like do i really need to get an n-connector?

[KeLviN]

you're going to end up with alot of loss.
plus you then have to use thin ass coax so the wire will fit. plus any time you move it, your going to send noise down the line or end up disconnecting it alltogether. at best it will work like shit and youd be better off using your cards internal antenna than that.

remember, in theory, even communism works..... but real life is a whole different story.

[Chris]

Natz,

I think a better question is to ask yourself why you are building a can antenna. Kelvin is right about the noise and loss issues...but if you are building the can antenna just to play around and experiment I say go for it. If you are trying to build an antenna for regular use I have to ask why? Yagi's are cheap..you can get one for little more than the price of the pringles and parts...plus your time has to be worth something...

Again, I am not trying to discourage you from making one, I just think you should examine your reasons. If it is to experiment and play...I would screw around with the Flickenger design as much as possible....hell you may even end up improving on it.

[KeLviN]

Originally posted by Chris
Kelvin is right

[Chris]

Originally posted by KeLviN

Hahaha...yes...think of it as an olive branch...BW has put in many good words for you ;)

[Natz]

when i said can antenna i was referring to a pringles can. and i would plan on jbwelding the wire or just different connector in place. i however was wondering if i HAD TO use an N-connsctor. or if similar would work. also when choosing wire, i know to go copper however what gauge should i really use? from browsing the net i have found a good range to shoot for but has anyone really tried to figure out the "best" or highest "gaining" wire?

and what do you mean BW has put in many good words for me?

[Chris]

Originally posted by Natz


and what do you mean BW has put in many good words for me?

Read my post again..."Originally posted by KeLviN" BW has put in no good words for you Natz.

[murakami]

Originally posted by Natz
when i said can antenna i was referring to a pringles can. and i would plan on jbwelding the wire or just different connector in place. i however was wondering if i HAD TO use an N-connsctor. or if similar would work. also when choosing wire, i know to go copper however what gauge should i really use? from browsing the net i have found a good range to shoot for but has anyone really tried to figure out the "best" or highest "gaining" wire?

and what do you mean BW has put in many good words for me?

You really don't need an N connector, so long as you have a way to connect it to your card. You can substitute BNC for real short runs of 12" or less.

Umm, you need to do some reading on radio waves, I think you are confusing conductivity with the idea of gain. What you are looking for is wire with the least amount of loss of signal. Since 802.11x is in the microwave range, you want wire/coax that minimizes the loss of energy at that frequency, such as the Times Microwave LMR series or Belden microwave stuff.

BTW, most comparisons between the cantenna and the pringles show that the cantenna is a better antenna. It's also a sturdier and easier to make.

[KeLviN]

BW, what cantenna worked best for our group? i know it wasnt cheezy poofs and i dont think it was pringles...., what was it?

[astcell]

Lemme open this can of whoopass....

[rusty]

Cantenna Design

Maybe I can put 2 cents in.

In my cantenna building experience the Nalleys Big Chunk Cantenna which can be found at http://www.turnpoint.net/wireless/an.../bigchunk.html or the Hunts Pasta Sauce Cantenna which can be found at http://www.turnpoint.net/wireless/antennas/hunts.html both perform well.

I have found a better can to use that yields better results than both of the above cantennas. Using the calculator on http://www.turnpoint.net/wireless/cantennahowto.html and through trial and error I created a can that gives about 20dB gain. I use a baby formula can that is the same size as this one http://www.walgreens.com/dbimagecache/109792.gif .The can measures about 3.35 inches wide, and over a foot long.

The end result ends up looking a lot like this cantenna. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=20321

And to answer your question about not using N connectors, and cable.

N connectors, and LMR100 cable are designed with RF signals in mind. The reason they are used is because they have the lowest loss. If you JBWELD your cantenna, chances are that you'll end up with a dud. Maybe you could get away with soldering a piece of copper wire to some lmr100, and soldering it through a hole in the can so it stays upright, but it really is easier to just find N connectors. I prefer these connectors. http://www.etherdesigns.com/images/600_N-CN2-1-1oz.JPG because you can "screw them on" instead of having to poke holes in the can they fit in 1 single hole that is exactly their size.

You can buy them from here for $4.50 each. http://www.etherdesigns.com/pages/3/index.htm#

Anyways, good luck. And remember, there is no right or wrong when you experiment. If you happen to improve on anything be sure to share it with the community.

-Rusty

[converge]

Originally posted by murakami
You really don't need an N connector, so long as you have a way to connect it to your card

This would actually eliminate the loss associated with having to use a connector, assuming a proper soldering job of course

[blackwave]

Originally posted by KeLviN
BW, what cantenna worked best for our group? i know it wasnt cheezy poofs and i dont think it was pringles...., what was it?

using the well known antenna howto, and calculator: http://www.turnpoint.net/wireless/cantennahowto.html

we started off with:


and the potato sticks can was the winner that tacitus is holding:


and kallahar posted the results of the tests we did with netstumbler:


Natz, if you really want to be cheap, strip coax to make a quarter wave antenna, and you have your bare wire antenna.

Here is the second cheapest: aka the toothpick antenna:
http://flakey.info/antenna/omni/quarter/

You can pick up the cantenna kits from fab-corp (http://www.fab-corp.com) for around 25 bux.

* 1 N Female Chassis Mount Connector
* 1 19" N Male to Lucent Style (MC) Pigtail

... just solder on 1.22 inch piece of 12 guage copper wire and you are ready to stumble.

[Natz]

ty guys. btw if i wanted to mount my antenna on my roof to shoot it to a friends house or other area how far can i run the pigtail wire or the N connectors wire before i get loss, or go out of the range? like i know cat5e is like 300 and some feet but how far should i run this stuff? i also know that coaxial has no limit, however as stated above it is too thin. basicly what i want to do is run it down to my basement where all my comps are cause my router and access point is down there. not i have a linksys wireless g access point, and it has thread on antennas i think they are coaxial connectors ill look to make sure but i was wondering if i could just put a cable on that to run it to my antenna and then run it to the antenna then to the other point? the reason i ask is i know that the linksys points do tie in as jumpers for the signal but i didnt know if i could just extend my cable from there to broacast out. and does anyone know how to amplify the signal i broadcast? can i actually amplify it? or just set up with better antenna's?

[blackwave]

Originally posted by Natz
ty guys. btw if i wanted to mount my antenna on my roof to shoot it to a friends house or other area how far can i run the pigtail wire or the N connectors wire before i get loss, or go out of the range?

You don't want to run the pigtail very long at all, it would be best to have your AP close to your antenna and just run the network cable down to the box. As to getting an amp, or booster linksys offers one http://www.linksys.com/products/prod...id=38&prid=478 (NOTE: The Wireless Signal Booster is certified by the FCC for use with the WAP11 Wireless Access Point and BEFW11S4 Wireless Access Point Router only which are 802.11b) ... but you always want to check your local regulations before amplyfying your signal.

Here you go, everything you ever wanted to know on coax...

http://www.timesmicrowave.com/teleco...ss/index.shtml

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